Manton Pushrods

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  1. #46
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    HeyBurton,

    The point of the calculations was to show you that the interval time differences are consistent as your ET changes. INHO, I think you inconsistency lies with you launch protocol.
    So, in terms of what I do leading up to launch? The variance is very little, and the only real changes happen in the burnout, but I'm always noting on my log sheets if the burnout was less than perfect and why, and that info is taken into account when looking at what I just ran. My process is to get the car up to operating temp (at the last race the temp stayed between 195 and 199). I do my burnout by getting the wheels spinning and releasing the line lock after about 1-2 seconds, continuing the burnout on my way up to the beams. Total length of time for the burnout is probably 4 seconds. At the beams I pre-stage, load up to 1600, and bump into stage.

    I can try longer burnouts to see if that makes a difference (and I will do that at the next couple of races) but other than that what would you suggest?
    I'm Chris. Most people call me Burton.

    Current: '13 Challenger R/T; Auto; Factory Limited Slip; LMI True CAI; Diablosport DCX (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 40 Series; Hurst Roll Control
    Past: '08 Charger R/T; Auto; LMI True CAI; Diablosport In-Tune (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 60 Series; SLP Line Lock


  2. #47
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    Jan 2015
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    Staging the car is critical. The difference from your quickest 60' (1.965) and your slowest (2.127) is a difference of .162, Things on the starting line effect ET at least 1.5 times. That said that is a difference in ET of .243 just based on your quickest vs slowest 60'. You really need to be perfect and stage exactly the same every time. Not only north and south but east and west as well. North and south is how far you go into the beams. Deeper into the beams slower the 60' and ET. East and west is how far left and right you position car in the grove. The track surface has a crown to let water run off. The further away from the center of the track the greater the roll out will be making for a faster 60' and faster ET. Your not looking for a PB just something consistent. Launching at exactly the same RPM is also important. Launch RPM will change all of your numbers. Foot brake pressure also plays a factor. How hard you are on the brakes needs to be the same too. I put my left heal on the floor and lift my foot up so the ball of my big toe it on the edge of the brake petal. My heal and foot is as close as I can to making it 90 degrees to the brake. the real force is on the heal and my foot is a lever. Its not part of the thread but staging will effect RT as well.
    Thanks HeyBurton, done thanked for this post

  3. #48
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazman View Post
    Staging the car is critical. The difference from your quickest 60' (1.965) and your slowest (2.127) is a difference of .162, Things on the starting line effect ET at least 1.5 times. That said that is a difference in ET of .243 just based on your quickest vs slowest 60'. You really need to be perfect and stage exactly the same every time. Not only north and south but east and west as well. North and south is how far you go into the beams. Deeper into the beams slower the 60' and ET. East and west is how far left and right you position car in the grove. The track surface has a crown to let water run off. The further away from the center of the track the greater the roll out will be making for a faster 60' and faster ET. Your not looking for a PB just something consistent. Launching at exactly the same RPM is also important. Launch RPM will change all of your numbers. Foot brake pressure also plays a factor. How hard you are on the brakes needs to be the same too. I put my left heal on the floor and lift my foot up so the ball of my big toe it on the edge of the brake petal. My heal and foot is as close as I can to making it 90 degrees to the brake. the real force is on the heal and my foot is a lever. Its not part of the thread but staging will effect RT as well.
    That is all excellent advice, thanks Kazman! Currently, the only thing I haven't yet paid attention to is brake pedal pressure. For car placement I stage the same way every time, bumping in the same, making sure I'm right in the groove. On the brake pedal I'm not mashing it, but have firm pressure on it so I don't have to worry about it rolling. I'll try coming up with a brake pedal technique (or I'll try yours) because every little bit helps, but I don't think that would be the answer here. I don't know though, what do you suppose the difference would be in 60' or ET between being hard on the brake pedal, and just hard enough to keep from rolling? I guess I should have someone video me staging so I can see if I'm as consistent as I think I am.

    Kazman, you never figured out why your challenger would run weird numbers, you just held a bunch instead? Were you as skilled at staging then as you are now? Like, do you think it was the car, or you, causing the off-numbers?
    Last edited by HeyBurton; 10-30-2018 at 03:21 AM.
    I'm Chris. Most people call me Burton.

    Current: '13 Challenger R/T; Auto; Factory Limited Slip; LMI True CAI; Diablosport DCX (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 40 Series; Hurst Roll Control
    Past: '08 Charger R/T; Auto; LMI True CAI; Diablosport In-Tune (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 60 Series; SLP Line Lock


  4. #49
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    Jan 2015
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    I've been out of racing for 2 years and getting back into it. My strength is in my staging. I stage the car to adjust my RT's. I hit the light (or try to) the same way every time and make adjustments to the car. I do change which bulb I focus on (top, middle, or third amber) but hit that bulb the same way. I set up for a killer .00x, and safer .02x, and a .04x. My current car I footbreaking, deep stage and use launch rmp to make adjustments . 2000 is kill, 1800 is safe, and 1600 is ultra safe. Off the trans brake its pre-load the suspension shallow 3300, 3100, and 2800. In the 2015 Scat Pack A8, no pre-load on the suspension, very shallow, idle, off second amber. My 60' were always close and the inconsistent numbers were between the 60' and 330' In most cases I raced in the slower car so no problem for me holding a ton and backing into my opponent. Scat was a 12.0 car and I was comfortable in my ability to judge the stripe against a 9 second car. Yes in that car I always held a ton especially in 1/8 mile racing. My guess is that the traction control was never truly 100% disabled. I had over 400 runs on the car before it was sold. -Jim
    Likes HeyBurton liked this post

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazman View Post
    I've been out of racing for 2 years and getting back into it. My strength is in my staging. I stage the car to adjust my RT's. I hit the light (or try to) the same way every time and make adjustments to the car. I do change which bulb I focus on (top, middle, or third amber) but hit that bulb the same way. I set up for a killer .00x, and safer .02x, and a .04x. My current car I footbreaking, deep stage and use launch rmp to make adjustments . 2000 is kill, 1800 is safe, and 1600 is ultra safe. Off the trans brake its pre-load the suspension shallow 3300, 3100, and 2800. In the 2015 Scat Pack A8, no pre-load on the suspension, very shallow, idle, off second amber. My 60' were always close and the inconsistent numbers were between the 60' and 330' In most cases I raced in the slower car so no problem for me holding a ton and backing into my opponent. Scat was a 12.0 car and I was comfortable in my ability to judge the stripe against a 9 second car. Yes in that car I always held a ton especially in 1/8 mile racing. My guess is that the traction control was never truly 100% disabled. I had over 400 runs on the car before it was sold. -Jim
    Jim, a couple of questions: Why did you leave off idle in the scat pack? And why did you get rid of it?
    I'm Chris. Most people call me Burton.

    Current: '13 Challenger R/T; Auto; Factory Limited Slip; LMI True CAI; Diablosport DCX (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 40 Series; Hurst Roll Control
    Past: '08 Charger R/T; Auto; LMI True CAI; Diablosport In-Tune (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 60 Series; SLP Line Lock


  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeyBurton View Post
    Jim, a couple of questions: Why did you leave off idle in the scat pack? And why did you get rid of it?
    I set the car up for my lights. I couldn't get the car to leave hard enough foot braking even deep staged. I don't anticipate the tree rather wait til I see my spot lit. The car is a fly by wire and has a huge delay when the gas is stomped. Settings were 45lbs front pressure, 18lbs rear tires, very shallow, no pre-load on the suspension, right heal on the floor toes resting on the gas or lifted up from the pedal, going on my second amber. This gave me the RT's that I needed. I'm 63 semi retired and say on a tight budget. My corvette that was in the shop for 3 years was completed and I had to make a decision on which car to keep. I decided to sell the Challenger to pay for the rebuilding costs of the vette as I had clear title to both cars. 12.0 Challenger was a lot cheaper to race than the 9 second 'vette. The corvette is a full out race car and a better bracket car. Also the vette allows me to be competitive in multiple events and classes. I can dial hard, spot drop, or dial soft and drive the finish. Sportsman 500 tree or Pro 500. 10.0 index or 6.50 index 1/8 mile, Open comp, 9.90 index, no box, box , pro, super pro etc. sorry got off on another tangent. Last note a win light is just as exciting no mater what car you are racing.

  7. #52
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    Oct 2010
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    OP, you're cutting come nice lights off the foot! IMO anyway... I always struggled off the foot. I setup a 4-wheel line lock on a button and it's helped.
    Anyway, i don't think anyone has mentioned your suspension but if everything else you're doing is so consistent you may just be fighting some super worn bushings and things like that. Things like rear cradle bushings, rear diff bushing, driveshaft coupler, etc. If these are worn and sloppy it will have a negative effect (and inconsistency) on your launch.
    Also, part of me thinks that it's not shifting consistently... i know its computer controlled and close to stock but it's something i had major issues with until i got my TCM tuned. It was all fixed and good until i changed my converter and now i'm back to tuning for next season.
    2006 Dodge Magnum - 6.1 w/ PWR ported Apache heads, Comp 273, 4000 TC, 3.73 Getrag, Headlight CAI, Hemituner TCM

    11.32x @ 119.xx

  8. #53
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    Aug 2018
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    I have had consistency issues on the track as well. My question is do you have a manual override on your fan? The single biggest change in consistency has been creating a manual override on my cooling fan. I am not talking about doing some redkneck hot wire fan job but creating a new circut with a relay and fuses. It also has to include making a bypass circut to shut off the conputer control. If you don't you can easily pop fuses when the computer tells it to come on.

    I have created the new circuits in my car last season and things changed drastically. Today i shut off the computer control when i get to the track and have a manual control switch on my dash. I run it when i want and keep the temp consistent from one run to the next i use the fan. It costs about $30 and maybe an hour. The only problem i have had is it is better to solder then use connectors.

  9. #54
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    Jun 2020
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    This is a great thread! Thanks to all who have wrote. I have A8 and trans temp is the hardest thing for me. These fan circuits, are you guys just manipulating them to control temp before staging or shutting off for the run or both?
    2016 scat A8

  10. #55
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    Jan 2015
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    Wow this is an old thread. lol So old that I have a 2020 Scat 1320 on order and should be at the dealer July 8th. I plan to bracket race the wheels off the car. Will post on how I do.



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