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  1. #1
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    Installing motor mounts

    Anyone replaced their AWD motor mounts and care to share any advice/tips? I took my car in for a wheel alignment after replacing upper and lower control arms and when I got home, I noticed there was a comment on the receipt saying my car needed a motor mount. I call the shop back and they said the mechanic noticed the engine move when he shifted the car into gear. I asked how much they charge to replace motor mount and was quoted nearly $500 per mount. Next I gave my local Dodge service department a call to get an idea how much they charge and they told me the mount itself runs $200, more than double what any online Mopar dealer charges. Then again, this is a dealer that aways looks to take at least $500 from your pocket anytime you bring your car in.

    The car is 14 years old and the motor mounts are the ones that came from the factory. I don't expect a shop to do the job for free, but I just think the prices quoted are a bit much. Anyway, I ordered some mounts from rockauto and figure I'll take my time and do it myself. Appreciate any info from anyone who has done this themselves.
    2006 Black Magnum RT AWD - Sidewinder Cam * Ported Heads * Edelbrock Shorty Headers * Cherry Bomb Vortex Cat Back * SLP Dual-Wall tips * Volant CAI * Diablo Trinity * Johan Tune * KW V2 * 2013 Dodge Charger 19" AWD Wheels *

    2010 Black Jeep Commander Limited

  2. #2
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    Both motor mounts were broken. Westar EM-4167 is listed as left motor mount for AWD, the part I received did not fit and received full refund from rockauto.

    Last edited by Rottyfan; 03-22-2020 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Add photo
    2006 Black Magnum RT AWD - Sidewinder Cam * Ported Heads * Edelbrock Shorty Headers * Cherry Bomb Vortex Cat Back * SLP Dual-Wall tips * Volant CAI * Diablo Trinity * Johan Tune * KW V2 * 2013 Dodge Charger 19" AWD Wheels *

    2010 Black Jeep Commander Limited
    Thanks Carpaltomo thanked for this post

  3. #3
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    Thanks for updating us with the info. Even though it didn't work out at least we can all benefit from you sharing what you found.

  4. #4
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    So do you have the correct part number for the correct mounts ?


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    Forged 392 based 426 stroker, Arrington phase four Apache heads, custom grind cam , ported and matched 6.1 manifold, long tube headers , solo performance cutback ,ati pulley and pinned crank , custom cai , Tba diff brace with 3.70’s out back and 30” et r’s

  5. #5
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    The motor mounts are installed with two 15mm bolts on the top and one 18mm bolt on the bottom. Chock the rear wheels, raise the front, remove wheels and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan, loosen the 18mm bottom stud. To reach the two upper 15mm bolts, you need to jack up the engine. Because the sway bar is in front of the axles on AWD, the only place I could place the jack pad on the oil pan was behind the sway bar and near the oil drain plug. I didn't want to place the jack pad directly on the oil pan so I put a hockey puck on the jack pad and then a piece of 2x4 on top of the puck and lifted the engine. I did not need to remove my Mopar strut tower brace.

    Even though it's only three bolts there's not much room and the brake line also runs in between the two upper bolts. This is not a quick job, take your time. The frustrating part was deep sockets could fit, but not enough room to get the ratchet on and short sockets were too short and too long with an extension. What came in handy were socket caps that allow you to turn a socket with a wrench. 3 Piece Square Drive Socket Caps

    The passenger side was more difficult because there is not enough room to get the motor mount out. I watched a few youtube videos on RWD cars and one person was able to bring the motor mount out to the left (towards the back), but with AWD, the CV axle is in the way. The other one, the guy removed the oil filter to give him room to bring it out. I was about to take my oil filter off, but instead of going low near the oil filter, I went up between the oil filter and below the alternator and that gave me plenty of room to bring it out in front of the sway bar.






    Replacement motor mounts do not come with the bottom aluminum bracket. Unbolt the two 13mm nuts and reuse the existing bracket.


    Before I forget, from the factory, the mounts are covered with a heat shield held on with two 10mm bolts. The replacement mounts have the holes, but they are not threaded so I didn't bother re-installing the heat shields.

    Also, after replacing upper and lower control arms and stabilizer links due to front end vibration, I still had a slight vibration while accelerating. If I was on local roads and accelerating lightly/moderately, between 30 and 40 mph, it felt like the front end was kind of oscillating or swaying from side to side and would go away as speed increased above 40 mph. It's hard to describe, but that's the best way I can explain it. The last bit of vibration is completely gone and the front end feels like a brand new car. I also think the driver side motor mount has been broken for quite some time and is likely the cause of making the front suspension parts wear out faster than they should. Now that I know what I'm looking for, I will inspect the motor mounts each time I change the oil.

    So there you go, I think that pretty much covers what's needed to replace your AWD motor mounts.
    2006 Black Magnum RT AWD - Sidewinder Cam * Ported Heads * Edelbrock Shorty Headers * Cherry Bomb Vortex Cat Back * SLP Dual-Wall tips * Volant CAI * Diablo Trinity * Johan Tune * KW V2 * 2013 Dodge Charger 19" AWD Wheels *

    2010 Black Jeep Commander Limited
    Thanks cleary524, ronan978, Ultimagic5 thanked for this post
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  6. #6
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    Nice write up brother, I'm at about the same point. Although I think some of my vibration is due to a misfire from what I think is an 02 or the map. But I did the entire front end , uppers, lowers, tie rods, and end links. Along with bc coil overs. Still have a slight vibration and something tells me the mounts may have something to do with it. Now I'll be checking out those mounts Installing motor mounts

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    16’ charger Scatpack
    Forged 392 based 426 stroker, Arrington phase four Apache heads, custom grind cam , ported and matched 6.1 manifold, long tube headers , solo performance cutback ,ati pulley and pinned crank , custom cai , Tba diff brace with 3.70’s out back and 30” et r’s
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  7. #7
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    Thanks, ronan978, I hope this info helps you chase down that last bit of vibration. When you go underneath the car, you should be able to determine if they are cracked right away. Keep us updated on how it goes. I'll be changing the oil soon and I'm going to take a look at the transmission mount while I'm down there.
    2006 Black Magnum RT AWD - Sidewinder Cam * Ported Heads * Edelbrock Shorty Headers * Cherry Bomb Vortex Cat Back * SLP Dual-Wall tips * Volant CAI * Diablo Trinity * Johan Tune * KW V2 * 2013 Dodge Charger 19" AWD Wheels *

    2010 Black Jeep Commander Limited

  8. #8
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    NOTPAID4 is offline "OLD GEEZERS LOVE CARS TOO!!!"
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    Nice write up! I haven't had to replace any motor mounts on any of our LX's: thankfully.
    Old Geezers LOVE cars too!
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    We now have a total of 15LXs and two Rams
    ​We have 7 300's, 6 magnums & 2 chargers
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  9. #9
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    Nice write up. Ya it was a pain. Here are the two that I used. I’m sure price probably went up..
    Well picture would not load but here are the part #’s
    Right side. Anchor 3138 Engine mount 25.72 Amazon in 2017
    Left side: DEA A5573 $38.72 in 2017.

    I did have to take on of the brackets off and put it on the new mount for some reason. I don’t remember which one or why but they both went in and are still fine today. And ya a PITA. But not as bad as the headers.

    Mopar CAI, Mopar Performance Torque Converter, MTCM, Tranzformer, 170 stat, Diablo 93 CAI tune + 5% fuel, RT Junkey’s ESP Mod, JBA shorties, cat delete thru Thrush Rattlers, UPR Catch Can, Eibach lowering springs, Mopar rear diffuser, Mopar front chin, Hurst T handle. 07 AWD Charger RT.




  10. #10
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    Hello all, looking for some help on the engine mounts , basically where do i get some in Ontario Canada ?? , I have a 2007 ,3.5 awd charger .while changing the oil i noticed that the drivers side engine mount was broken and not even attached to car body anymore, bugger i thought, oh well off to the mechanic i use and leave the car with him. I get a call from him telling me they don't make the part anymore and no one has any in stock in Canada or US so he cant fix it. i call main dealer and get the same response with a $600 price tag if he could get 1 .
    From what i gather from this post is the replacements don't come with the aluminum spacer between the rubber and the bodywork, which on mine is actually half missing.
    Has anyone else had this problem and been able to MacGyver a solution from a mount from a diff model, does anyone know if there is a non oe part as a replacement , love the car and refuse to believe i have a scrap car for the sake of an engine mount.



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