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  1. #61
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    10hp!!! That’s awesome! I expected 4 to 6. LOL

    Here’s the deal though, this isn’t about power or trap speed. This is just because I wanted to do it.

    I may never run it on a strip, or have a dyno done.

    I probably will want to do it again? Any volunteers?? Start a 3.5L VHO club. My 3.5L EPIC waste of time!!!  Why not!
    Likes tf34mech, Jay Z liked this post

  2. #62
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    Jun 2013
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    MIght be on a dyno with a tuner
    Likes reefstar liked this post

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    MIght be on a dyno with a tuner
    I said “may”. LOL

    I’ve done a lot of tuning myself with other engines. So this will be fun!

    If not “may” will become “will”.

  4. #64
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    Oct 2010
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    This area of the upper plenum bugs me a lot. When doing a port job, on the intake side, air will travel in the shortest possible route. Which means the inside of a radius is much more important to pay attention to than the outside of the radius (or port).

    So as air goes racing around this inner curve of the plenum, it’s creating a negative pressure zone behind the stepped out area.

    So think about it, the shorter runners opens as the engine is at higher rpm. Higher rpm means more air moving faster. And now they designed a cosmetic interference to that runner.

    I’ll bet there is some valuable hp right there!!!!

    Today I will become a plastic surgeon! Once I finish it and it works out, I’d love to do it to a non (or mildly) modded engine for someone to see if there is a noticeable difference... so let me know.

    In the mean time... today I become a plastic surgeon! (Again). I’ll post pics as I go along.


  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    This area of the upper plenum bugs me a lot. When doing a port job, on the intake side, air will travel in the shortest possible route. Which means the inside of a radius is much more important to pay attention to than the outside of the radius (or port).

    So as air goes racing around this inner curve of the plenum, it’s creating a negative pressure zone behind the stepped out area.

    So think about it, the shorter runners opens as the engine is at higher rpm. Higher rpm means more air moving faster. And now they designed a cosmetic interference to that runner.

    I’ll bet there is some valuable hp right there!!!!

    Today I will become a plastic surgeon! Once I finish it and it works out, I’d love to do it to a non (or mildly) modded engine for someone to see if there is a noticeable difference... so let me know.

    In the mean time... today I become a plastic surgeon! (Again). I’ll post pics as I go along.


  6. #66
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    My 3.5L EPIC waste of time!!! Why not!

    Started by cutting out the bracing. I think once I get it cut, I can just heat it up, and bend it out to create the curve.

    Makes a pretty big cut out. The step out is bigger than it looks.



    Hard to get a good picture of how much it opens up the curve inside, but you can see the difference from the top and the bottom (which I haven’t done yet).

    Last edited by reefstar; 10-17-2020 at 02:54 PM.
    Likes tf34mech, Jay Z liked this post



  7. #67
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    Here’s the final cut out section. I removed everything so that it would be clear to see how much I removed. Normally I would leave pieces attached any where possible, but I cut them off just to get better pictures and details of the inside of the plenum.

    Next I’ll post pictures to show how I put it all back together.

    Likes Lowlife44 liked this post

  8. #68
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    Oct 2010
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    My 3.5L EPIC waste of time!!! Why not!

    So here we go, let’s fix this thing.

    I’ve had very good luck so far with the JB Weld plastic Bonder. I like it better than the JB weld Plastic Weld. Seems to adhere much better, and drys much harder.



    First make sure everything inside and out is clean. I like to scuff it good with a 120 grit paper

    Make sure to wipe all the dust down with a dry clean cloth.

    Next, I’m going to put blue painters tape on the INSIDE of the plenum. (That’s why the inside had to be clean). That will create the inside for the glue to shape to.



    In this case I also shoved a roll of towels inside to help the tape hold it’s round shape. (Creativity and ingenuity are always beneficial)



    Then I applied a foam weather strip to create a “dam” around the area I’m going to fill. This is because I am going to overfill the hole. I don’t want the epoxy to be holding only against the cut edges. It will also be bonded to the plenum’s outside surface. Stronger and no leaks.



    Once that is done, one last check and we are ready to mix and pour the epoxy into the area. Notice it is overfilled.



    Now I take a torch(or a heat gun) and go over the epoxy. THIS IS NOT TO HELP IT DRY. Go over it very quickly and in a sweeping motion. When you do small bubbles will surface to the top. Just keep doing it until they stop surfacing. This took about 15 to 20 seconds. So you see it’s not to heat up the epoxy.




    Now wait... you can work the epoxy for a bit, but once it gets sticky, stop. You can always add more later.

    Here I’m checking for the epoxy to become firm. It’s still tacky, but it’s definitely firm



    This is when I will remove the “dam” material. You can take it off later if you want, but I generally do it now, because I want to start shaping the epoxy before it gets hard



    I’ll post this now, and add more pics as I start to do the shaping.
    Last edited by reefstar; 10-19-2020 at 07:50 PM.
    Likes chrismah liked this post

  9. #69
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    Next is the fun part (for me anyway). Just when the epoxy is firm but not hard is the time to start knocking off all the high spots. This will save time in the long run, and sometimes you can even finish a spot perfectly at this point pending on how intricate it is.



    I’ll use a razor blade, a sharp chisel, a rasp, file, pretty much anything at this point, and get it as close as possible before it hardens completely.



    But remember to not shave it too thin. Like I said, I like to leave an epoxy build up on the surface, and then blend it all in.

    At this time you can remove the painters tape on the inside as well. Make sure to get it all.

    Here’s the inside

    Looks like it was made that way from the factory.

    I’ll upload more pics of how it turned when I get it done.
    Likes tf34mech, Lowlife44 liked this post

  10. #70
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    Ok, how did I do?

    (Other than a quick skim coat of epoxy or bondo and some paint.)



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  11. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
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    Kahalu'u,HI
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    Looks damn good to me,pretty cool little improvement on the stock design.
    Thanks reefstar thanked for this post
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  12. #72
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    My 3.5L EPIC waste of time!!! Why not!

    The Upper plenum

    Before...


    After...



    Shooting some primer on it makes it a bit easier to see than with all the different colors...



    This is like one of those pictures where you have to find all the things that are different. LOL!
    Last edited by reefstar; 10-20-2020 at 08:46 PM.
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  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Very impressed with how you worked that plastic. Keep up the build. Great documentation so far.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks reefstar thanked for this post
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  14. #74
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    Mar 2012
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    NE Florida
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    Looking good! The engine appearance mods are just as cool as the performance mods nice way to add class to an already classy car.
    Thanks reefstar thanked for this post
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  15. #75
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    Oct 2010
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    Eastern WA
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    My 3.5L EPIC waste of time!!! Why not!

    Pistons are coated and on their way back!!! Decided to go ahead and do the tops as well as the skirts.



    Then it’s going to get balanced since the new pistons are heavier.
    Last edited by reefstar; 10-22-2020 at 05:47 PM.

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