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Thread: Battery Life

  1. #16
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    Well, the cold winter won out!! Two weeks ago, it strained to start, the wipers came on, the dash lights lit up and it didn't look as if it was going to start. BUT, on the 5th try, it started. However, it went into limp mode. The gas pedal had no effect and warning lights on the dash stayed lit. After 10 minutes, I shut it down and then restarted. Gas pedal back to normal, but check engine light stayed on. To-day, I couldn't get it to start at all. Battery is past its sell by date!! LOL. Should I just leave it until spring, or get BryGuy to come and put a new one in now?? It's going to need a scan to clear the check engine light, but will all else be back to normal?

    2011 Toxic Orange Charger R/T R&T (license plate "BUK8LIST") Factory Repro rims/Nitto Invos, Aria CAI. Solo Exhaust, Daytona chin spoiler. Window tint.

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  2. #17
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    Yeah, I start paying more attention after 3 years just because. I remember a long time ago I was getting 7 or more years from a battery. More recently I went thru 5 batteries in a 2005 Mustang over 14 years. Tried Optima Red x 2, Optima Yellow x 2 and original factory. Finally replaced it with a new one from the dealer. It was doing well when I traded the car in back in 2019.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

  3. #18
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    I have only had bad experiences with Optima batteries.
    Net is where I be......Nathan is me
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    2006 Charger SRT8
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by netnathan View Post
    I have only had bad experiences with Optima batteries.
    For the premium charged I expected more.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

  5. #20
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    I installed a police size 49/H8 East Penn Manufacturing AGM in my 2013 R/T Plus in 1/2016. Branded by Oreilly's "Super Start Extreme". Great battery, no signs of weakening.
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS 6.8 PSI, 450hp/459tq, Corsa CatBack, 3.06 Open Diff, Severe Duty Radiator, Dual Fans, OE Oil Cooler, Pursuit BR9 Brakes.



  6. #21
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    Once I started keeping track of Optima batteries, their service life sucks slew water...
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  7. #22
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    I remember years ago reading on lots of rock crawler forums, some of them survivalists in Australia, complaining back when Optima moved to Mexico the quality went with it.

    I'm running a Odyssey Extreme dual setup in my Silverado since 2014. They are the rebranded Sears Die Hard contracted out to Odyssey. A nice little secret that tipped Odyssey sales a little and they didn't renew.

    Now that I have spoken I'll need three batteries tomorrow.

    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS 6.8 PSI, 450hp/459tq, Corsa CatBack, 3.06 Open Diff, Severe Duty Radiator, Dual Fans, OE Oil Cooler, Pursuit BR9 Brakes.



  8. #23
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    Key things to remember when purchasing a new battery:
    - Ensure it is actually manufactured by East Penn
    - Realize that Dealerships can't afford battery failures under warranty - hence FCA purchases all labelled batteries from East Penn
    - Starting your ride periodically while parked / stored is one the worst things one can do to - especially(!) at below-zero temps (its called charge acceptance - in this case lack thereof)
    - End-users play the largest role in battery service life; every time a FC battery is discharged to the point it will not start the vehicle, service life is removed never to be replaced
    - Constant-current / trickle chargers / battery tenders are a FC battery's enemy...
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

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  9. #24
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    Please tell me if these battery maintainer specs reflect a good one or no go for long term?
    Thanks,


    Microprocessor controlled ─ automatically adjusts the amperage rate to charge and maintain
    Multi-stage charging for added precision, safety and battery life •
    Float mode monitoring ─ Automatically maintains optimum battery charge
    Auto voltage detection ─ 6 or 12 volt
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS 6.8 PSI, 450hp/459tq, Corsa CatBack, 3.06 Open Diff, Severe Duty Radiator, Dual Fans, OE Oil Cooler, Pursuit BR9 Brakes.



  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Once I started keeping track of Optima batteries, their service life sucks slew water...
    My experience with them has been similar to what others have mentioned. The older ones were great; not so much anymore. I had several Optima red tops that lasted seemingly forever. Would I buy one today? Nope...

    Quote Originally Posted by gapi View Post
    I remember years ago reading on lots of rock crawler forums, some of them survivalists in Australia, complaining back when Optima moved to Mexico the quality went with it.

    I'm running a Odyssey Extreme dual setup in my Silverado since 2014. They are the rebranded Sears Die Hard contracted out to Odyssey. A nice little secret that tipped Odyssey sales a little and they didn't renew.
    Curious why the double battery setup? I've seen it on some GMT900 wreckers but it wasn't utilized and in fact it seemed to cause overcharging of the second battery, fizzling acid all over the tray. I don't know who set them up or why they thought it was needed but I removed the setup on the truck I was driving (2009 3500HD 6.0)

    I've had an Odyssey in my 2006 SS for a couple years now; replaced an Optima red top that was probably 5-6 years old. The Odyssey has been great, even when sitting for a week outside in the unprecedented cold we just had in Houston. Cranked up immediately with zero hesitation.

    The downside to judging what a battery company is doing today based on a battery that was bought several years ago is, a lot could have changed, since...!

    BTW jealous of your setup. Wish the underhood of my SS was sporting goodies like that.

    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8

  11. #26
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    Back when I was hunting and hanging out year round in the N. GA mountains on our 4000 acre club with 1100 more acres a creek had to be forged to access winching was common as was partying lots at night and running custom audio setups, and some big Hellas up front. I also have a 100% duty cycle ViAir compressor for rear air bags and tire fills. Lots of steep, slick, rutted, washed out access roads. We loved it because it kept trespassers to a minimum.
    Also the available battery tray ate at my over the top physicke.

    The 2005 Silverado year started using an alternator setup that stopped charging when the voltage target was reached but letting it free spin or drop target voltage. I had the 2nd battery isolator/solenoid setup on a timed trigger so the truck started on the main and charged 2 minutes before bringing the 2nd on system. With key off it was isolated to run what ever accessory I wanted to run with key off or on or jump a motorist off.

    We had this life out there for 17 years.

    Big Bear 225Amp 100% Duty Cyle.

    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS 6.8 PSI, 450hp/459tq, Corsa CatBack, 3.06 Open Diff, Severe Duty Radiator, Dual Fans, OE Oil Cooler, Pursuit BR9 Brakes.


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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gapi View Post
    Please tell me if these battery maintainer specs reflect a good one or no go for long term?
    Thanks,


    Microprocessor controlled ─ automatically adjusts the amperage rate to charge and maintain
    Multi-stage charging for added precision, safety and battery life •
    Float mode monitoring ─ Automatically maintains optimum battery charge
    Auto voltage detection ─ 6 or 12 volt
    That appears to mirror most offerings top-level "technical" marketing lingo.

    Here's what to look for, better yet - quiz those who sell these devices:
    - Smart charge @ 10A+ that cuts off at full charge
    - Enter STNDY mode and simply check V periodically
    - Once a discharge threshold is reached, again recharge @ 10+A
    - Rinse and repeat.

    No low current trickle charge / float charge / maintenance charge V - or whatever brand marketing lingo wishes to call the destructive regime to separate themselves from the rest...




    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels

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  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    That appears to mirror most offerings top-level "technical" marketing lingo.

    Here's what to look for, better yet - quiz those who sell these devices:
    - Smart charge @ 10A+ that cuts off at full charge
    - Enter STNDY mode and simply check V periodically
    - Once a discharge threshold is reached, again recharge @ 10+A
    - Rinse and repeat.

    No low current trickle charge / float charge / maintenance charge V - or whatever brand marketing lingo wishes to call the destructive regime to separate themselves from the rest...

    I got a NOCO Genius 10 that's like what you describe, been good so far. Its nice that it has a 10A power supply mode too... Only thing I notice is with it you need to leave it on a bit longer (hour or so) after the light pulses green to make sure its fully charged...

  14. #29
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    Does it cut off at full charge or trickle. Trickle is bad long term.
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS 6.8 PSI, 450hp/459tq, Corsa CatBack, 3.06 Open Diff, Severe Duty Radiator, Dual Fans, OE Oil Cooler, Pursuit BR9 Brakes.



  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by IcarusLSC View Post
    I got a NOCO Genius 10 that's like what you describe, been good so far. Its nice that it has a 10A power supply mode too... Only thing I notice is with it you need to leave it on a bit longer (hour or so) after the light pulses green to make sure its fully charged...
    Where UPS systems are installed that employ FC or gel to ensure PWR in the event of a PWR outage, charge regimes are as I described above. They do not incorporate low current maintenance. Burst charge mode that is either at a constant V or begins to diminish to 0A as full charge is reached. The latter ensures 100% charge, whereas a 10A charge rate - when shutdown @ 12V measured is reached, the battery is not actually at 12.4 / .6 when ate rest with no-load. Either way...both are good enough in STNBY mode.

    Given how loving folks are of the rides, I would be surprised there are but a few who actually connect any charging device and walk away for weeks or months. So to satisfy that over-protective desire, thee best scenario to ensure max battery service life would be to:

    - remove B+ for the duration of storage
    - use a normal smart charger that detects V that is capable of 10 to 25A (auto-detects actually capacity at start-up)
    - drops current O/P the closer the battery gets to 100% of capacity
    - enters no-charge or maintenance but the end-user disconnects the charger entirely
    - With an inexpensive DVM, check V periodically and recharge at <12.2V
    - Rinse repeat...

    Resist(!) the urge to start the engine...there is zero reason to start it up during storage!! Any of the reasons I've heard so far all baseless and do more harm than good! BTW; change your oil before long periods of storage. Why? Cause the detergent properties are doing real work during storage.


    Quote Originally Posted by gapi View Post
    Does it cut off at full charge or trickle. Trickle is bad long term.

    That's true - precisely what to avoid...
    Last edited by Hemissary; 02-26-2021 at 05:22 PM.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels

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