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  1. #1
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    Dec 2014
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    2 Question 1 thread

    First question, is for anyone who has done a SRT Brembo front spindle swap on any non-SRT Car. When you performed this swap, did you replace the ball joints, and if so what did you use to press out the old joint. I'm in the middle of attempting this, and the C-clamp type press tool along with my Air Compressor isn't really working for me.


    Second question is for anyone who has lowered an LX/LC platform using H&R springs. I have a complete set of H&R springs on my 13 Challenger R/T, and the right rear sits lower than the rest of my car. It is too the point that the tire rubs on the right side if I don't run 35 series tires. I've checked for any binding and to ensure the springs are installed the same, however I can not resolve this issue. I'm curious to know if anyone else out there has run into this issue.
    13 Durango R/T
    13 M6 Challenger R/T
    02 M5 Dakota QC Sport
    91 TKO 600 Dakota CC
    63 Dart 3 on da Tree



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    I know sitting uneven on springs is very common. I experienced the same with my eibach springs until i got adjustable coilovers.

    As far as the balljoint out of the up.... if you have the entire knuckle off the car, make sure you are using the right tool. Mine did just fine with a balljoint pusher clamp and a 1/2” electric impact. I tried by hammer first but it was seized.


    Is your tool getting enough air? Or is it really stuck on their? Im sure you can easily take the knuckle and new ball joints to any auto repair and it would be like $20 a ball joint. Less headache for you

  3. #3
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    Dec 2014
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    Thanks for the quick response..... I didn't realize sitting uneven on the springs was a common issue.


    I have the knuckles off and went to a local shop, they wanted to charge me 1 hr labor and it would've been $130. I just got a new compressor, so I'm going to revisit the ball joint tool again. I think the old compressor I first tried to do the job with didn't have enough to get the job done.


    Again thanks for your response.
    13 Durango R/T
    13 M6 Challenger R/T
    02 M5 Dakota QC Sport
    91 TKO 600 Dakota CC
    63 Dart 3 on da Tree

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Houston TX
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    Bear in mind I have NOT done ball joints on one of our cars yet. However I have done 'em on trucks. So what I'm saying may or may not apply; others surely please correct me if this is improper procedure on the LX/LC cars.

    I used a long handle 1/2" breaker bar and in some cases a cheater pipe (half of my floor jack handle.) The OEM pressed-in joints were seriously stuck. And even with a little bit of grease, the Moog replacements fought me going in. At least they weren't loose requiring control arm replacement, ya know?

    It's been more than once I've got a tough fastener loose using a breaker bar (even without a cheater pipe) than even a good 1/2" impact. For some reason a strong pull with a long lever won over the hammering action of the impact. Oh and still use an impact-grade socket. I've broken regular ones by hand and it's not fun when you're leaning all the way into it and it lets go unexpectedly. :(

    Also, be sure you've lubed the threads and the pivoting tip on the press tool, every use.



    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8

  5. #5
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    Mar 2016
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    Load the c clamp up as much as you can and rap on the cup with a hammer. He vibrations will help loosen it. Keep adding tension on the c clamp and keep doing it until it’s loose.


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
    Likes ronan978 liked this post

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Springfield, MO
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    I changed the whole front suspension and had to use 5 feet of breaker bar with the c clamp tool to get the lower ball joints out of the knuckle. Luckily every other one was throw away cause I replaced what they were connected to. Almost said screw it several times and wanted to buy a new knuckle cause of how hard it was to get out even with penetration oil, air tools, etc. Just keep trying. Leave the knuckle on the suspension as much as you can for a "third hand" help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Heat , sledgehammer, and ball pen hammer gets the ballpoints out


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
    06 Black Mag R/T. Rear wiper delete, trunk handle delete, front and rear aluminum belly pans, Strut grills, Spectre drop in , straight pipes exhaust, 85mm Arrington throttle body, diablo sport Intune, Jet 180, billet catch can, st coilovers,spc adjustable upper control arms, BWoody endlinks, Petty's garage sways, speedlogix 4 point rear strut brace, Pettys garage front strut tower brace, long tubes, 2015 eagle intake, SLP Underdrive pulley

  8. #8
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    Sep 2018
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    Wouldn't recommend using heat, there's a post on here about that. Mine were severely rusted in and needed a lot of work to get them out but was overall safer imo.

    Safety warning to all!!! Ball joint removal; a near death experience!!!

  9. #9
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    Mar 2017
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    There's a reason the new control arms come with ball joints in them 2 Question 1 thread

    There comes a point where it's cheaper to just replace the whole control arm. I know it's a helluva lot easier.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

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