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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    ride quality BC raing coilovers

    i bought a 06 300 srt a few months back as a insurance rebuilder (lower control arm, tie rod and fender damage) i have just puttered away on it and its driveable now. I see it has BC racing coil overs. its pretty low. i drove it up and down my driveway and its way rougher than my one ton truck. is this a normal aftermarket coil over thing or just because its so low?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Probably both. I would see if there is a stiffness adjustment at the top of the shocks. Usually a small allen key will work, and you can adjust from stiff to soft that should help

  3. #3
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    awesome. ill check that. thanks

  4. #4
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    They're probably adjusted wrong too. Just delt with this on my daughters Caliber SRT4. The previous owner put them on and the car was slammed. I've never delt with coil-overs before and the internet sucks so I had to teach myself how they needed to be set up. 1st you want to jack the car up on jack stands, The wrenches are cheap from BC so get a set if you don't have them. Pray that the shock bodies don't have any corrosion on them or you're likely going to be replacing parts. Now use the wrenches and see if all the lock rings turn. You might have to use a small punch and hammer to loosen them if the previous owner put them on too tight. Once they're loose and free raise the body of the shock up in the spindle so you get maximum ride height on all 4 corners. The spring seat ring should just be touching the spring at this point. NO PRELOAD! Measure the length from the top of the shock body to the upper mount with the shocks at full extension and write it down. Ok now the easiest way is to probably set some jack stands under the ends of the suspension and lower the car without wheels down onto them so the weight of the car is on the springs. Now set the preload on the springs so that you have 2/3's of compression travel of the total travel of the shock shaft distance you measured with it fully extended. Now your preload is set correctly no matter how many youtube videos you watched that say otherwise. Tighten the lock ring to the lower seat ring using the wrenches ONLY! Do not use a punch to tighten them further. You'll never get them apart if you do and they don't need to be that tight. Now you can set your desired ride height by turning the shock bodies in the spindle housings to lower the car. Remember that if you draw a line from the inner lower a-arm mount to the ball joint on the spindle you don't want that angle to point upwards towards the outside of the car. If it is then the car is too low and messes with the camber curve when you turn or hit a bump. Now align the car and adjust the knobs for stiffness.


    My daughters Caliber was slammed, the pre-load was set so stiff the the shocks were at full extension all the time. Sure it would go around smooth corners but it rode like crap and scrapped everything. Now it's maybe 1" higher and rides so much better. There's a set of rail-road tracks here I couldn't go more than 10mph over. Now I can hit them at 35 and the car just goes right over. It still takes corners with zero lean too. It's like a little go-cart with a smooth ride. I had to replace a rear shock and some of the lock rings because they had tightened them too much, bottomed the shock bodies out in the housings, and with a little corrosion even clamping them in a vice on one in and holding them in the spindle head on the CNC machine with a 4ft pipe wrench on it couldn't break them loose. I had to machine off the lock rings on one. The other was beyond saving it was so bad. So the rings just have to be snug. They won't come loose if you use the wrenches.

    Really I was super dis-appointed with the BC's until I got them adjusted correctly. Now that they are I'm going to get a set for my magnum.
    Thanks Lowlife44 thanked for this post

  5. #5
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    Jun 2018
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    great info!! ill tear into this thing soon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    So standard issue BC Coilovers are tuned for a nice ride, even with the damper setting cranked to max (they come with pretty mild valving and spring rate) that's why you call them and customise them to your application.

    I would first look to see how low the car is and if its riding on the bump stops. If its riding on the bump stops it will ride like garbage and bounce you all over the road.

    If the car was owned by someone for stance, they might have even stacked bump stops (or worse, washers).

    Preload should only be set to around 10MM, your not going to gain anything if you go more, unless you have a progressive spring rate, you will only loose suspension travel. (preload is always a highly debated topic) so I would check yours and reset it.

    Check the spring rates, then look and compare them to what bc's website has.

    Other than that. raise it to a reasonable ride height as these cars run into all kinds of geometry issues slammed (unless that's your thing)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenSunnyD View Post

    Preload should only be set to around 10MM, your not going to gain anything if you go more, unless you have a progressive spring rate, you will only loose suspension travel. (preload is always a highly debated topic) so I would check yours and reset it.

    Preload should be set so there's 2/3's bump travel to 1/3 rebound with the weight of the car on the springs. The spring rate is linear so there is no change to the handling via the spring rate by cranking the "preload" up, But if you're hitting the end of travel wether or not it's the bump stop or the end of the rebound travel then your handling takes a hit. The wheel has to be able to follow the ground. If it's getting squished into the ground from compression bottoming or if it's in the air because you have no rebound then your "preload" is wrong. The "preload" is only get the strut travel to be in the correct location with the weight of the car so the suspension can do it's job.



  8. #8
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    When set up correctly they are amazing. I had them on my 06 SRT8 Charger along with full whiteline bushings and sway bars lowered 1.25" It felt like an AMG Mercedes, great handling and firm but compliant ride.
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  9. #9
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    All four of MY BC coil overs 30 clicks total from soft to hard. I have the extenders in the rear.
    The rears are set with the perch. it can be a PITA.
    The fronts require more steps to adjust the height than the rears, you have to take the lower tie rod off as I recall, every time you adjust
    Directions should be available online, but I think they suck.
    AS they have ben on the car awhile, suggest you wash the areas as best you can, let dry, spray with your favorite cleaner, then pb blast or the like over night. wipe off the threads in the am.
    park on level and bounce the car a few times let sit for a few minutes. Then measure and record. from the ground to the fender lip passing through the axle center, or center of the tire. Most of our cars sit a bit higher on the drivers side, stock like 1/4 ". just my experience. Suggest you do both front tires first then rears. Make an adjustment, count the threads you turned, set on ground take measurements and record measurements as you go. get the height you want. By the time you get one wheel set you'll have good starting point for the other side.
    I recommend you start out at 15 clicks, and adjust as you like from there.
    If your drag racing... set all 4 max soft. remember to set them back before the drive home.

    GL
    Last edited by Rupert; 04-14-2020 at 03:23 PM.
    08 R/TCharger, Stock bottom end 5.7: LMI TRUE CAI, eagle intake, 6.1 injectors. Modern Muscle Performance Group 87mm Ported TB, big CAM, and ported eagle heads. SLP UD pulley. 6.1 timing set,and lifters, PSI springs custom pushrods, cometic head gaskets, 11:1 comp. American Racing 1 3/4" long tube headers, highflow cats with Magnaflow 3" mufflers, 4" tips., catch can 170 stat. Builder Bill rebuilt tranny, stage 2 VB, 3500 stall TC, AFI flexplate. Getrag 3.73 MTCM. BC Coilovers. Pistol grip shifter. 417 RWHP, Dyno Tuned by Brent @DTP.
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    Thanks Lowlife44 thanked for this post

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    On the mildest setting, the stock BCR's are equivalent to an SRT8 ride. On the max setting they ride like a rock.

    Quote Originally Posted by AllenSunnyD View Post
    So standard issue BC Coilovers are tuned for a nice ride, even with the damper setting cranked to max (they come with pretty mild valving and spring rate) that's why you call them and customise them to your application.

    I would first look to see how low the car is and if its riding on the bump stops. If its riding on the bump stops it will ride like garbage and bounce you all over the road.

    If the car was owned by someone for stance, they might have even stacked bump stops (or worse, washers).

    Preload should only be set to around 10MM, your not going to gain anything if you go more, unless you have a progressive spring rate, you will only loose suspension travel. (preload is always a highly debated topic) so I would check yours and reset it.

    Check the spring rates, then look and compare them to what bc's website has.

    Other than that. raise it to a reasonable ride height as these cars run into all kinds of geometry issues slammed (unless that's your thing)

    inTune 91 CAI, 180 stat, BB 6dB reso delete,Tranzformer, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS switch. Wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 245/45/20 and 295/40/20 Continental DW's on 9"/10" F/R Viper Replicas, BCR Coilovers, Drake strut brace. Interior accent LED 's. 55/35 tint, BT catch can. LED interior lighting. BT bling, front parking sensors. Rear seat heaters. Color matched tails "MoPar" puddle lights. Custom front lip.
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  11. #11
    Join Date
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    If you run them on the max setting....you will blow them out and they will start "clunking". Done that already
    Net is where I be......Nathan is me
    *
    2006 Charger SRT8
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rupert View Post
    All four of MY BC coil overs 30 clicks total from soft to hard. I have the extenders in the rear.
    The rears are set with the perch. it can be a PITA.
    The fronts require more steps to adjust the height than the rears, you have to take the lower tie rod off as I recall, every time you adjust
    Directions should be available online, but I think they suck.
    AS they have ben on the car awhile, suggest you wash the areas as best you can, let dry, spray with your favorite cleaner, then pb blast or the like over night. wipe off the threads in the am.
    park on level and bounce the car a few times let sit for a few minutes. Then measure and record. from the ground to the fender lip passing through the axle center, or center of the tire. Most of our cars sit a bit higher on the drivers side, stock like 1/4 ". just my experience. Suggest you do both front tires first then rears. Make an adjustment, count the threads you turned, set on ground take measurements and record measurements as you go. get the height you want. By the time you get one wheel set you'll have good starting point for the other side.
    I recommend you start out at 15 clicks, and adjust as you like from there.
    If your drag racing... set all 4 max soft. remember to set them back before the drive home.

    GL
    Is this true? Tie rods have to be removed? My current coils aren't like that thank God

  13. #13
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    Jun 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    Is this true? Tie rods have to be removed? My current coils aren't like that thank God
    No, on the BC's the fronts can be adjusted by breaking loose the lock ring and turning the shock body. Easy. The back, yes is a bit more involved.
    Thanks Jay Z thanked for this post

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Ok thank you for clearing that up. I was wondering wtf that was about. Looking at buying a set since this would be an upgrade from my current cheap coils. Been great for 60k miles though.

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