Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 35
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    DFW-Texas
    Posts
    1,359
    Post Thanks / Like

    Trans pan drop question on a 2008 challenger SRT8

    Hey boys,

    I have a 2008 challenger SRT8 with the NAG1 transmission. I bought the Mercedes trans pan with the drain plug in it to make future trans maintenance easier, but I noticed when I got under the vehicle to remove the pan, that the two rear most bolts of the trans pan are blocked by a large cross member that would need to be removed to access those bolts with the T30 torx socket and a ratchet, or to use a torque wrench to tighten them back to 70 in/lbs.

    Is that cross member supporting the transmission or anything else I need to know about before I remove it? Does anything need to to be braced before I pull it off? And what is the torque on the bolts on the brace when I go to replace it back on the car when I'm all finished?

    There's no mention of a cross member on other challenger articles on trans maintenence that I've seen, so I'm thinking it's unique to the SRT models and I just want to be sure I don't fudge something up before I pull it off.

    I have a Dorman dipstick, a Tranzformer to get the fluid temp and the temp/fill chart, just don't know about that brace.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,061
    Post Thanks / Like
    No need to remove the crossmember in my opinion. I removed mine without doing it. And I didn't torque the bolts either. 60 or so years of shade tree wrenching makes me think I don't need to to seal the pan with a gasket. Change that filter. they can plug up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    chicago il
    Posts
    1,770
    Post Thanks / Like
    Removing it makes it easier. If you do just support the driveshaft. Just like above, change the filter.
    2007 SILVER CHARGER SRT: OBX LONG TUBES, NO CATS, MAGNAFLOW MUFFLERS, SRT MAX CAM, BFNY PORTED 6.1 HEADS, LMI TRUE CAI, 3200 ENHANCED TRANSMISSION CONVERTER, 3.55 GETRAG/UPGRADED CLUTCHES, 180* T-STAT, ATI FLEXPLATE, EUROCHARGED TCM, PORTED INTAKE AT TB, 90MM BBK TB, DIABLOTOONA TUNED.

    2007 BB CHARGER R/T- 400ci stroker, big cam, hellcat rear cradle conversion with 3.09zf diff, to much to list.........oh yeah, procharger d1sc at 15#.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,706
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
    Hey boys,

    I have a 2008 challenger SRT8 with the NAG1 transmission. I bought the Mercedes trans pan with the drain plug in it to make future trans maintenance easier, but I noticed when I got under the vehicle to remove the pan, that the two rear most bolts of the trans pan are blocked by a large cross member that would need to be removed to access those bolts with the T30 torx socket and a ratchet, or to use a torque wrench to tighten them back to 70 in/lbs.

    Is that cross member supporting the transmission or anything else I need to know about before I remove it? Does anything need to to be braced before I pull it off? And what is the torque on the bolts on the brace when I go to replace it back on the car when I'm all finished?

    There's no mention of a cross member on other challenger articles on trans maintenence that I've seen, so I'm thinking it's unique to the SRT models and I just want to be sure I don't fudge something up before I pull it off.

    I have a Dorman dipstick, a Tranzformer to get the fluid temp and the temp/fill chart, just don't know about that brace.
    If you've got the appropriate tools (like ball end keys), you can work around the cross member, but yes, it supports the back of the transmission. That cross member supports the transmission assembly so if you elect to remove it you need to put support forward - under the transmission.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 03-18-2019 at 08:03 PM.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    DFW-Texas
    Posts
    1,359
    Post Thanks / Like
    I didn't even know they made ball end torx wrenches. Thanks for the tip, Simon.
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Niagara Region,Canada
    Posts
    193
    Post Thanks / Like
    Watching videos of people draining the nag1 is just fxxked. Watch as they get fluid everywhere. What I do and I'm sure some other do as well. Warm up the car so the fluid flows. I use an fluid extractor, stick tube down trans tube. Pull fluid from trans. Jack car up, support it, pull pan. All without get trans fluid everywhere. Hope that helps you out!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,061
    Post Thanks / Like
    It would take longer but you can use a piece of tygon tube from Home Depot to syphon the oil out. I have siphoned oil out of my transmission using this technique.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    929
    Post Thanks / Like
    When I changed my filter a few years ago, I put a jack stand behind the cross member. Below the output of the transmission there's a part that sticks past the cross member, I got the jack stand as high as it could fit and lowered the cross member, the bolts are pretty long.

    Actually just found pictures, this was in 2015.



    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    2005 Brilliant Black 300C
    Qtp dual oval cutouts, LegMaker True V2 CAI
    ZAuto Tranzformer, Diablo Trinity 93 canned tune, Hoosier Dr2

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    145
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 4 crossmember bolts are 75lbs and the 2 trans mount bolts are 55lbs. Use blue loctite.


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    38
    Post Thanks / Like
    Replace the trans mount while yer there. Unless your car has 50k miles or less. It will thank you for it ..l0l

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,706
    Post Thanks / Like
    Do not use Loctite!
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,706
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by GreyMax View Post
    The 4 crossmember bolts are 75lbs and the 2 trans mount bolts are 55lbs. Use blue loctite.


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
    Do not use Loctite,

    Quote Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car View Post
    Replace the trans mount while yer there. Unless your car has 50k miles or less. It will thank you for it ..l0l
    If it's serviceable, why? It sees no appreciable loading.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels

    Likes KYUUBI liked this post

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    38
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Do not use Loctite!
    I agree on the aluminum housing/mount bolts but a dab of blue wouldn't hurt anything on the crossmember bolts.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    38
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Do not use Loctite,



    If it's serviceable, why? It sees no appreciable loading.
    1. The rubber is old.
    2. You are in there already and only have the mount to remove.
    3. Even the one in above pic is showing wear/distortion
    4. Preventative maintenance
    5. Engine mounts and trans mount hold Engine/trans assembly (as stated above)
    Last edited by Mopar'er no car; 03-18-2019 at 11:43 AM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,706
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car View Post
    I agree on the aluminum housing/mount bolts but a dab of blue wouldn't hurt anything on the crossmember bolts.
    Why???

    Quote Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car View Post
    1. The rubber is old.
    2. You are in there already and only have the mount to remove.
    3. Even the one in above pic is showing wear/distortion
    4. Preventative maintenance
    5. Engine mounts and trans mount hold Engine/trans assembly (as stated above)
    <sigh> Huh?
    1. How do you know "the rubber is old"??
    2. Why? If its serviceable, why??
    3. BS, there's nothing in that pic to suggest there's anything wrong with it, plus its not the OP's car!
    4. BS again
    5. This device can not be compared to engine mount loading.

    Flawed logic, waste of money.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 03-18-2019 at 12:37 PM.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •