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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    How To Install an Oil Cooler on a 2.7

    This is on a 2008 model. Install is the same for 05-07.

    PARTS NEEDED
    -

    1. - 04792912AE - Engine Oil Cooler (2005-2007 - 3/4" Thread)
    OR
    - 04892421AA - Engine Oil Cooler (2008-2010 - 22mm Thread)



    2. 06502017 - 24x15 Hose Clamp for Oil Cooler lines (2 Required)

    3. 055038117AA - Radiator Inlet Hose (Has 2 extra lines going to Oil Cooler)

    4. 04596498AA - 38X15 Hose Clamp (Can be re-used off old Inlet Hose)

    Valvoline ZEREX G-05 Coolant(takes about 2.4 gallons/10 quarts of coolant).

    Oil Filter of your choice

    5w20 Oil - approx 6 -7 Quarts (fill capacity will increase with the cooler, mine was 6.3 Quarts)



    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    With the engine warm (not hot), Drain the oil and remove the oil filter, warming helps to remove all the old oil.

    Once the oil is gone, wipe off the oil filter housing and clean the threaded fitting with some alcohol wipes or degreaser. Then apply some blue Loctite to the oil filter fitting.



    Smear a small amount of clean oil on the oil cooler gasket, this is the side that mates with the housing on the engine.

    Place the cooler on to the filter housing and using a H12 hex bit, screw in the oil cooler adapter making sure the metal tab on the filter housing lines up with the cut-out on the cooler lip. This is to prevent the cooler from rotating whilst being tightened. Torque the cooler fitting adapter to 45 Ft Lbs (61 N-m).



    Place the new radiator hose in front of the old one, between the radiator and the engine. Drop the cooler lines down behind the fans into the area of the oil cooler.
    Place the 24x15 hose clamps on the coolant lines, about 1.5 inches from the end of each hose.

    Slip the cooler lines over the fittings on the cooler. Be careful not to cross the lines. If they are tight going on try massaging the ends of the hoses to loosen them and place a very small amount of dish soap on the outside of the fittings, they should go on easier after this.



    Using pliers, pop the hose clamps in place over the cooler fittings.Rub a little fresh oil on the gasket of your new oil filter and thread it on the oil cooler. Snug it down hand tight.



    Next, fill the motor with the 5w20 oil of your choice. It should take roughly 66.5 quarts for a complete fill, but keep checking the dipstick after the fifth quart and add accordingly.

    Once the engine is cold, remove the coolant pressure cap and open the bleeder nipple on the water outlet (above the inlet hose). Place a large container under the car and turn the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator anti-clockwise to drain the coolant.

    When all the coolant has drained, (you could also use this time to flush the system with water) remove the old radiator inlet hose and place the hose clamp from the engine side in the same place on the new hose, about 2.5 inches from the end (the radiator side will already have a new clamp attached).

    Connect the new radiator inlet hose the same way as the old, radiator side with the new clamp, engine side with the old one. Close the radiator drain cock.

    BEFORE


    AFTER


    Attach a 6 ft. long 1/4in piece of tubing to the bleeder fitting. Place the other end of the tubing into a clean container and route the tubing away from the belts, pulleys, and fan motors (this will prevent coolant from fouling the belts when bleeding the system during the refill).

    Make sure the bleeder nipple is open so that the cooling system can remove any trapped air. Place a small funnel into coolant bottle filler neck. Using pliers or a small clamp, pinch the overflow hose that connects between the two chambers of the coolant bottle.

    Pour the coolant into the funnel slowly, allowing any trapped air to escape.
    Repeat until a steady stream of coolant flows from the tube attached to the bleed nipple. Close the nipple and continue filling the system to the top of the funnel, then remove the pliers clamping the overflow hose.

    Allow any coolant in the funnel to drain into the coolant bottle. Remove the funnel. Replace the pressure cap and remove the tubing from the bleed nipple.

    Start engine and drive the car for about 25 minutes to bring it to normal operating temp.

    * The cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system. *

    Shut off engine allow to cool down for 30 minutes. This permits excess coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber.

    Once again, check the oil level with the dipstick.

    With the engine cold, observe coolant level in the pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within MIN and MAX marks. Adjust as necessary.

    NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. Coolant will normally only be in the inboard of the two. The outboard chamber is only to recover coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent fill.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Ocala, Florida :-)
    Posts
    11,690
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    Why in the world would you need an oil cooler?? Especially on a 2.7 motor??

    Do you live in Death Valley??

    Bob
    Bob in Ocala, Florida, 77 years old - married 56 years. Sold my 05' Magnum RT which ended up being totaled. My new ride is a 2016 Toyota Highlander XLE. Time to go up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaRT View Post
    Why in the world would you need an oil cooler?? Especially on a 2.7 motor??

    Do you live in Death Valley??

    Bob
    Close, Houston

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    10,261
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    Nice write-up.

    I didn't realize they made that for the V6. Cool (pun intended)!

    When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
    My friends call me JONN (usually).


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Chicago
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    3,524
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    Upgrade the rad and now you'll be cooking...er cooling!


    2006 SRT 300C CAI - Corsa Sport - Hurst - Predator - BT Catch Can - Updated SRT bumper - LEDs
    2005 R/T Magnum K&N intake - Bilstein B6 with SRT springs - Mopar Corsa Sport - Predator -
    BT Badges - Speedlogix Catch Can - LEDs
    Quote Originally Posted by fatchance
    You take a four-door sedan and make it a rocket ship.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Shohola,PA
    Posts
    34
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    Anybody know where I can get the #55038117AA hose? I tried 2 local and 3 online Mopar dealers and everybody tells me its an "export only" part and they can't get it. Thanks.

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