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  1. #151
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
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    2,501
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    Damn this has turned out to be difficult. Yesterday I spent several hours trying to remove it without removing the alternator...I finally gave up on that. Today I decided to just remove the alt, and that was a PITA. I needed a breaker bar, and the first two bolts, the top bolt, and the one nearest the front weren't too bad, but the bottom one nearest the rear of the car didn't want to budge. There is very little room, so with a breaker bar, you can barely move the bolt. My sockets have many sides to them, and it was starting to round off the bolt head, so I had to buy a new 6 point 1/2" drive socket. I had a perfectly fitting 1/4" drive, and with a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, I broke two of the adapters. I needed a 1/2 drive 15mm socket so a trip to the auto parts was in order, and that finally worked.

    I finally got the bolt off, removed the alternator, then couldn't unlock the connector locking clip as it was in the worst possible location from the factory. I finally got that unlocked, and now can't remove the stuck connector. There just isn't much room to get leverage on anything even with a screw driver. I can't get any torque on the connector to free it. I don't want to crush it, and I can't get any good grip on it. I sprayed it down will electrical cleaners, so hopefully that loosens it over time.

    So, I have to drive my Jeep to work tomorrow as I finally gave up again. This is one of those rare instances, that something that should be so simple, has been so difficult, that if I could go back, I'd have paid to have it done.

    I was going to use this weekend to change out my tension struts, which has to be 5 times easier than this, but a Friday morning check engine light changed my plans.

    I hate very difficult, time consuming jobs, that don't even reward you with a better driving car. When it is finally done, that car will be identical to how it was Friday morning, one second before the check engine light came on. Oh well, beats a new car payment on a Honda or Toyota.
    2019 Ram Express RCSB Hemi
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T - SC Flashpaq, Volant exhaust, 22x9.5" Boss 338, 265/35/22, 14.1@98MPH

    2000 Jeep Wrangler
    1966 Dodge Monaco 500


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3250470
    Likes Supertom liked this post



  2. #152
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    D/FW, Tx
    Posts
    559
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    By trying different positions, I was able to grasp the connector and push the tab while pulling it off.
    It does not just slide off after you unlock the red clip thing. You have to squeeze it and pull toward the front of the car at the same time.
    I also removed the alternator and belt for more space. My 3/8 ratchet was just enough to loosen those bolts. I did remove both lower shields.
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT.
    12/2016 - Inertia big valve heads, Eagle intake, non-MDS lifters, Spartan Plus cam, Shorty headers. 390 RWHP, 390 RWTQ. (Work by Inertia)
    01/2017 - Bilstein shocks, SLP 25% underdrive pulley. s/b 400 RWHP, 400 RWTQ now. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced engine mounts with 392SRT manual transmission, added police oil cooler, additional PS and Trans coolers, Mishimoto radiator. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced Torque Converter with FTI 3,200RPM, Installed 3.06:1 Getrag kit, one piece Al DSS DS, Billy Boat 3" Exh.
    11/2017 - Wilwood brakes with 15" front brakes. (Work by me)

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
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    Thanks. I didn't know you had to squeeze the connector too. There is so little room, that I almost wish I had removed the fan assembly. Who knows, maybe I'll have to do that too. My hands and arms are all beat up from working on this.
    2019 Ram Express RCSB Hemi
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T - SC Flashpaq, Volant exhaust, 22x9.5" Boss 338, 265/35/22, 14.1@98MPH

    2000 Jeep Wrangler
    1966 Dodge Monaco 500


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3250470

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    D/FW, Tx
    Posts
    559
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    I did not remove the fan assembly.
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT.
    12/2016 - Inertia big valve heads, Eagle intake, non-MDS lifters, Spartan Plus cam, Shorty headers. 390 RWHP, 390 RWTQ. (Work by Inertia)
    01/2017 - Bilstein shocks, SLP 25% underdrive pulley. s/b 400 RWHP, 400 RWTQ now. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced engine mounts with 392SRT manual transmission, added police oil cooler, additional PS and Trans coolers, Mishimoto radiator. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced Torque Converter with FTI 3,200RPM, Installed 3.06:1 Getrag kit, one piece Al DSS DS, Billy Boat 3" Exh.
    11/2017 - Wilwood brakes with 15" front brakes. (Work by me)

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Bergen Cnty, NJ
    Posts
    1,398
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    Not sure how the other guys did it without removing the alternator, but in my opinion there's no other way.
    you MUST remove the alternator.
    just a few pointers tho

    1) Just make sure you disconnect the battery
    2) make sure the car is COLD/hasnt been run is a couple of hours
    3) Since you see how easy it is, minds well replace the serpentine belt also
    Does you car have Ka-chunka-chunk
    AWD + HEMI = OMG
    Dislikes Berserker disliked this post

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
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    I finally got it done yesterday, WOW what a pain in the ass, everything fought me all the way. After struggling to do it without removing the alternator, I gave up on that, so here's how I managed to do it.

    1. Remove serpentine belt. Get a new one and install it when you're done.
    2. Remove alternator.
    3. Remove oil filter (This was probably unnecessary after doing steps 4 and 5).
    4. Remove EGR valve assembly.
    5. Remove the connector (not the hot lead) from the alternator so I could move it to sit up on the valve cover to get me clear access to the oil pressure connector. I also had to remove the upper radiator hose to get the alternator up there.

    After this, it was pretty much a breeze, and putting everything back together didn't take all that long. I would have saved a ton of time and irritation had I just done the above steps right from the start. After you get the new switch in, just start reversing the process in the opposite order. I also had to remove my air box, as I couldn't move the tensioner far enough to get the new serpentine belt on without do it.

    Harbor Freight sells a 27mm 1/2" drive socket for impact wrenches, and it works absolutely prefect for removing and installing the new switch. It drops in just the perfect amount to only expose the threads. Link below.

    1/2 in. Drive 27mm Deep Impact Socket

    Some have apparently managed to do this job without removing anything, I certainly couldn't, and I wasted a lot of time trying.
    2019 Ram Express RCSB Hemi
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T - SC Flashpaq, Volant exhaust, 22x9.5" Boss 338, 265/35/22, 14.1@98MPH

    2000 Jeep Wrangler
    1966 Dodge Monaco 500


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3250470

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    D/FW, Tx
    Posts
    559
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    Yup. I just removed the belt and unbolted the Alt. My socket let the sensor fall so far in that none of the threads stuck out. I wadded up a paper towel portion and stuffed it into the socket as a shim.
    Was your old one leaking oil into the connector?
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT.
    12/2016 - Inertia big valve heads, Eagle intake, non-MDS lifters, Spartan Plus cam, Shorty headers. 390 RWHP, 390 RWTQ. (Work by Inertia)
    01/2017 - Bilstein shocks, SLP 25% underdrive pulley. s/b 400 RWHP, 400 RWTQ now. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced engine mounts with 392SRT manual transmission, added police oil cooler, additional PS and Trans coolers, Mishimoto radiator. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced Torque Converter with FTI 3,200RPM, Installed 3.06:1 Getrag kit, one piece Al DSS DS, Billy Boat 3" Exh.
    11/2017 - Wilwood brakes with 15" front brakes. (Work by me)

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    2,501
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    I didn't have any oil in the connector like I've seen others mention.
    2019 Ram Express RCSB Hemi
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T - SC Flashpaq, Volant exhaust, 22x9.5" Boss 338, 265/35/22, 14.1@98MPH

    2000 Jeep Wrangler
    1966 Dodge Monaco 500


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3250470

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    NW WA
    Posts
    137
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    I'm in need of doing this... But sounds like such a pain. What would a shop charge? Any one look into that?

    Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk

  10. #160
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    MD
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    1,141
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    LOL...had to do this on my Charger about a month after I got it. Jack up front end, remove belly pan. Locate sensor above oil filter housing. Disconnect plug. Finagle long socket or wrench over it and remove. Clean the area. Screw new one (very carefully). Reconnect. Test. Put everything else back on. Took me about an hour or so laying on my back with an inspection mirror.
    Likes Supertom liked this post

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    1
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    Is this the same location for a 2009 Charger 3.5 V-6?

    Thank you so much.

  12. #162
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    177
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    Well, I just finished replacing mine. I probably should have read this whole thread first. Instead I just read the first post, and watched a couple of videos. Funny too, because when I put the car on ramps, I thought "I wonder if pulling the oil filter would be easier?" I did that in the end, but not before laboring to remove the alternator. That bracket nut isn't easy, I used a flare nut wrench to loosen it. Then I bought the wrong socket first, it had a shoulder in it. Craftsman 1-1/16 works. I did read enough to buy the OEM part from the dealer. I'm not really sure I could have removed it with just the oil filter off, as the pigtail was really struck on tight, the lock too. I would recommend that anyone doing this job buy a pigtail before starting, I cracked mine and had to tape it back together. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, I've cleared the code and can drive this weekend.

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    11
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    I have now done three of these without removing the alternator... I just partially remove the belt by releasing the tensioner and moving the belt from the area. You cannot see the sensor but you know where it is so you can reach in and get to it. The hardest part for me has been releasing the connector - depending on how the sensor ended up orientated it can be hard to release the red lock. On one I had to fumble around with a small pick and by feel. Then it is simply a socket and extension. Not sure how people are having difficulty doing it with the alternator on, it takes literally like 15 mins if the connector part goes well. Also just as anecdotal information it seems to me that the sensors Chrysler used the last decade or two are all pretty poor quality. Just in my personal vehicles I have done 3 hemi cars, several SRT4s, even a minivan... About 50-75% of the modern Chrysler cars I have had has eventually had issues with the oil pressure sensor.
    Thanks Johnsand thanked for this post

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    177
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    I think that I still would have had two challenges without removing the alternator. My car is an '06, things get stuck. I tried a coat hanger to open the red clip as it was turned away. That broke the center from the clip. Working from underneath with a screwdriver, I did push it open. But the pigtail still stuck tightly to the sensor. The second problem is that I'm 58 years old and 6'5"; my hands are large and arthritic. Even with the alternator off it was very hard to reach in and grip the clip. Anyway, now it's done. On to the next problem.

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    NW WA
    Posts
    137
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    I've found this is worth the $200 in labor to replace!

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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