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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pandora View Post
    I have a blower cam , new left over from my current build. Paid almost 500 for it but asking 375 plus shipping. I can send the specs if interested.
    I was reading one of the threads here about the head flow. I bought a pair of modified heads with valve up grades and machined C & C'd from Arrington engines. They would not at the time give me any flow data...said it was propriety info...so I sent the heads down to Dings racing to have them flow checked, and then posted their proprietary info. Long story short...he came back said the heads were good, nice flow and stuff but it was kind of a lewd point since I have a blower...but the cam was going to be the determining factor. I'm using a 3.6 LC KB with pulley setup for about 16lbs of boost. I had sent the snout down to CTP had had it extended so I now operate a stand alone belt drive. All the accessories stay on the stock belt and don't receive abnormal stress from trying to put too much tension from the blower. (an expensive mod by the way) Other areas I would consider is drive line, tranny, half shafts. (don't recall if you said these were already done) How about brakes?...will need to stop sometime. Also with running increased boost what are your plans to cut down on AIT temps...I have a stage 3 snow meth system, it will allow a more aggressive tune without the worry of detonation problems from heat. Here is a pic of my slow build money pit.
    Please feel free to PM me the specs on your cam, including what year/model/engine spec you ran it on.

    I mentioned above I'm hoping my drivetrain will last through to the beginning of 2021, at which point I would enter that phase of my upgrades. From what I've read, which I always take with a grain of salt, I should be ok at around 650rwhp/tq

    I upgraded to Brembos all around. May upgrade to 6 piston fronts at some point, but the 4 pistons are still excellent so I feel fine with them for the foreseeable future.

    My IATs have not been an issue at all to date (~35-40 degrees over ambient). This isn't a dig at all, but I've heard KB's have bigger issues with that than the 2.9 Whipples. Since I won't be increasing boost that much right now, I am not concerned at this stage.



  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcmx5 View Post
    Please feel free to PM me the specs on your cam, including what year/model/engine spec you ran it on.

    I mentioned above I'm hoping my drivetrain will last through to the beginning of 2021, at which point I would enter that phase of my upgrades. From what I've read, which I always take with a grain of salt, I should be ok at around 650rwhp/tq

    I upgraded to Brembos all around. May upgrade to 6 piston fronts at some point, but the 4 pistons are still excellent so I feel fine with them for the foreseeable future.

    My IATs have not been an issue at all to date (~35-40 degrees over ambient). This isn't a dig at all, but I've heard KB's have bigger issues with that than the 2.9 Whipples. Since I won't be increasing boost that much right now, I am not concerned at this stage.

    There are a lot of mixed posts about IAT's. I think any product will experience some issues depending on where your filter is mounted (mine will be just in front of the front LH tire), where you are running at (NW vs Texas for example), Are you cooling your fuel any (I had thought about incorporating one in on my build but not enough room not worth it for my application). My choice for the KB was first a certain look and then performance (I think I got both). A little about the Brembo's. If I had to redo I would have found another aftermarket product. I have the 8 piston upgrade, aprox 5k for parts. If you ever need to just replace the rotor cough up 1600 for just the outer pieces not the center hubs. Brembos being Italian, they don't want to really work with you for replacement parts on some of the stuff, like the bridge pipe between the halves...they want to get deep into your wallet first. My cam is a comp cam for nitrous and FI applications, non VVT. I have an 06 SRT Charger with an aluminum block with a 426 stroker crank.


  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pandora View Post
    There are a lot of mixed posts about IAT's. I think any product will experience some issues depending on where your filter is mounted (mine will be just in front of the front LH tire), where you are running at (NW vs Texas for example), Are you cooling your fuel any (I had thought about incorporating one in on my build but not enough room not worth it for my application). My choice for the KB was first a certain look and then performance (I think I got both). A little about the Brembo's. If I had to redo I would have found another aftermarket product. I have the 8 piston upgrade, aprox 5k for parts. If you ever need to just replace the rotor cough up 1600 for just the outer pieces not the center hubs. Brembos being Italian, they don't want to really work with you for replacement parts on some of the stuff, like the bridge pipe between the halves...they want to get deep into your wallet first. My cam is a comp cam for nitrous and FI applications, non VVT. I have an 06 SRT Charger with an aluminum block with a 426 stroker crank.
    No additional cooling yet. As I said, I haven't had any IAT issues to date. I think I'm sold on the hellcat cam. It should be everything I need and more for this build since this won't be a 1,000hp car

    Can anyone confirm what kinds of boost numbers guys are successfully running on forged 392s? Not looking for "it should be capable of running X" as much as what numbers you KNOW people are running at without any issues?
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcmx5 View Post
    No additional cooling yet. As I said, I haven't had any IAT issues to date. I think I'm sold on the hellcat cam. It should be everything I need and more for this build since this won't be a 1,000hp car

    Can anyone confirm what kinds of boost numbers guys are successfully running on forged 392s? Not looking for "it should be capable of running X" as much as what numbers you KNOW people are running at without any issues?
    I'll be running 18-20 on a forged 392 based 426 and I am not concerned with the pistons. Firefighter and a few other guys are going higher.

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
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  5. #20
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    Once you move to a forged piston the amount of boost is dictated by the fuel used . 93 pump will allow about 15 PSI. above that it's E85 or race fuel . I have a buddy with a forged 392 at 11:1 comp making 20 PSI on E85 . car makes upper 800-900whp( I don't know exactly ) your choice of the Hellcat cam is a good one for a 5.7 or 6.4 but IMO won't be enough for a 426.
    Last edited by MXS67454; 12-07-2019 at 03:47 PM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post
    Once you move to a forged piston the amount of boost is dictated by the fuel used . 93 pump will allow about 15 PSI. above that it's E85 or race fuel . I have a buddy with a forged 392 at 11:1 comp making 20 PSI on E85 . car makes upper 800-900whp( I don't know exactly ) your choice of the Hellcat cam is a good one for a 5.7 or 6.4 but IMO won't be enough for a 426.
    That's not quite correct. My entire set up is based on 93oct with availability of e85 or race fuel later. I'll be at 850-900 at the wheels on 93.

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

  7. #22
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    [QUOTE=punisher69;5158122]That's not quite correct. My entire set up is based on 93oct with availability of e85 or race fuel later. I'll be at 850-900 at the wheels on 93.

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk[/QUO
    It can be done...BUT..you will not have much timing in it to make it run. it will be a turd when not in boost and you may not care but it will guzzle fuel..
    you're putting a lot of unnecessary heat in the motor with 18+ PSI on 93 and what you're doing is a compromise and far from ideal. 15 PSI on 93 is max with full timing. like 16 ish degrees.
    Last edited by MXS67454; 12-07-2019 at 05:29 PM.

  8. #23
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    [QUOTE=MXS67454;5158125]
    Quote Originally Posted by punisher69 View Post
    That's not quite correct. My entire set up is based on 93oct with availability of e85 or race fuel later. I'll be at 850-900 at the wheels on 93.

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk[/QUO
    It can be done...BUT..you will not have much timing in it to make it run. it will be a turd when not in boost and you may not care but it will guzzle fuel..
    you're putting a lot of unnecessary heat in the motor with 18+ PSI on 93 and what you're doing is a compromise and far from ideal. 15 PSI on 93 is max with full timing. like 16 ish degrees.
    I have ID1300x injectors and a Procharger, a little different than a Whipple set up. It's not a compromise of any sort. I actually have room to make more power on pump gas, but I had this done with the intent of being a daily driver/ track car that I do not want to cage, so I dialed it back some.

    I'm not losing anything anywhere except MPG's...and I wasn't worried about that with a blown 426 anyhow

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  9. #24
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    [QUOTE=punisher69;5158129]
    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post

    I have ID1300x injectors and a Procharger, a little different than a Whipple set up. It's not a compromise of any sort. I actually have room to make more power on pump gas, but I had this done with the intent of being a daily driver/ track car that I do not want to cage, so I dialed it back some.

    I'm not losing anything anywhere except MPG's...and I wasn't worried about that with a blown 426 anyhow




    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    Boost is Boost.. Whipple or Procharger does not matter . at 18+ PSI on 93 you won't have even close to optimum timing in it and that.....is a compromise.. as I see it.
    Last edited by MXS67454; 12-07-2019 at 06:35 PM.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post
    Once you move to a forged piston the amount of boost is dictated by the fuel used . 93 pump will allow about 15 PSI. above that it's E85 or race fuel . I have a buddy with a forged 392 at 11:1 comp making 20 PSI on E85 . car makes upper 800-900whp( I don't know exactly ) your choice of the Hellcat cam is a good one for a 5.7 or 6.4 but IMO won't be enough for a 426.
    Definitely sticking with the 5.7 or 6.4 so appreciate the reassurance on the Hellcat cam.

    I posed the boost question on a 5.7 based 392 because machining obviously weakens the block, so I'm seeing if anyone has faced failure at certain boost amounts so I can make the best decision

  11. #26
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    Look into a Ram BGE, great foundation to start with. Same heads and block the Hellcat has. It's the route I went. Keep driving your car until built, then sell your engine to recoup some costs. I bought an oil pan and front cover to keep my 5.7 together for better resale.

    2019 Ram 3500 ESB 6.4L V8 Heavy Duty HEMI MDS Engine Assembly 2006865 | eBay

    6.4 BGE specs - Moparts Forums

    6.4 liter Hemi truck engines for Ram pickups and chassis cabs

    Hellcat BGE 6.4 | Dodge Challenger Forum
    2013 Chrysler 300S, 6.4 BGE with 6.4 SRT cam, AIT 18% OD pulley, E-force with 2.62 pulley(11.4 lbs boost), fastman 84+4 mm throttle body, 1 7/8 kooks long tubes w/hi-flow cats, 3" Magnaflow Cat-back, FTI 2800 stall, Trans built by Hellraiser, Dings Racing valve body and tune, Getrag 3.73, Walbro 400LPH, DW 65# inj. LG aluminum rad. Dual SRT fans. Complete 4 piston Brembo upgrade. Stage one MOPAR springs, XIX X39 22x9 +15 - 22x10.5 +22 with NITTO 420 265/35R22 - 295/30R22

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by coanan View Post
    Look into a Ram BGE, great foundation to start with. Same heads and block the Hellcat has. It's the route I went. Keep driving your car until built, then sell your engine to recoup some costs. I bought an oil pan and front cover to keep my 5.7 together for better resale.
    Appreciate the outside the box idea. Did some research on the BGE after seeing your post yesterday and it does seem stout. From a budget perspective it makes little sense in my situation though. If I had a buyer for my 50k mile 5.7 block already it would be a nice option, but I'd have to pony up for the block, still a forged rotating assembly, cam, etc, shipping, install on all of it and then install on the whipple. I also haven't heard of anyone cracking these "standard" 5.7 or 6.4 blocks under 900+ rwhp/rwtrq, so I think it would be overkill for this build.

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